Pehea e hoʻohana ai i ka ʻōnaehana helu ʻehā no ka nānā ʻana i nā lole lole lole?

ʻO ke ʻano nānā maʻamau no ka lole ʻo ia ka "ʻano helu helu ʻehā".Ma kēia "pālākiō ʻehā", ʻo ka helu kiʻekiʻe no kēlā me kēia hemahema he ʻehā.ʻAʻole e ʻoi aku ka nui o nā hemahema o ka lole, ʻaʻole ʻoi aku ka nui o ka helu kīnā i kēlā me kēia iwilei laina.

Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia kahi pālākiō ʻehā no nā lole i ulana ʻia, me nā helu 1-4 i unuhi ʻia ma muli o ka nui a me ka paʻakikī o ka hemahema.

Pehea e hoʻohana ai i ka ʻōnaehana helu ʻehā no ka nānā ʻana i nā ʻoihana lole lole?

ʻO ke kūlana o ka helu

1. E loiloi ʻia nā hemahema o ka warp, weft a me nā ʻaoʻao ʻē aʻe e like me nā pae hoʻohālike:

Hoʻokahi helu: ʻo 3 ʻīniha ka lōʻihi o ka hemahema

ʻElua mau kiko: ʻoi aku ka lōʻihi o ka hemahema ma mua o 3 iniha a emi iho ma lalo o 6 iniha

ʻEkolu mau helu: ʻoi aku ka lōʻihi o ka hemahema ma mua o 6 iniha a emi iho ma lalo o 9 iniha

ʻEhā mau helu: ʻoi aku ka lōʻihi o ka hemahema ma mua o 9 iniha

2. Ke kumu helu helu o nā hemahema:

A. ʻAʻole ʻoi aku ma mua o 4 mau ʻokoʻa no nā hemahema āpau a me nā weft ma ka pā hoʻokahi.

B. No nā hemahema koʻikoʻi, e helu ʻia kēlā me kēia iwilei o nā hemahema he ʻehā helu.No ka laʻana: E helu ʻia nā puka āpau, nā puka, me ka nānā ʻole i ke anawaena, ʻehā helu.

C. No nā hemahema mau, e like me: nā ʻanuʻu, ka ʻokoʻa o ka ʻaoʻao a me ka ʻaoʻao, ke sila haiki a i ʻole ka laulā lole ʻokoʻa, nā peʻe, ka waihoʻoluʻu ʻole, etc.

D. ʻAʻole e unuhi ʻia nā helu i loko o ka 1″ o ka selvage

E. ʻO ke ʻano o ka warp a i ʻole ka weft, ʻaʻohe mea o ka hemahema, e ʻike ʻia ke kumu, a e unuhi ʻia ka helu kūpono e like me ka helu kīnā.

F. Koe wale no na hooponopono kūikawā (e like me ka uhi ana me ka lipine adhesive), ma ke ano o ka aoao mua wale no o ka lole hina e pono ke nana.

2. Nānā

1. Kaʻina hana laʻana:

1) Nānā AATCC a me nā kūlana laʻana:

A. Ka helu o na laana: e hoonui i ke kumu huinahalike o ka huina iwilei me ka ewalu.

B. Ka helu o nā pahu hōʻailona: ke kumu huinahā o ka huina o nā pahu.

2) Nā koi laʻana:

ʻO ke koho ʻana i nā pepa e nānā ʻia he ʻokoʻa.

Pono nā wili lole e hōʻike i ka mea nānā i kahi pepa paʻi i ka wā i hoʻopili ʻia ai ka liʻiliʻi o 80% o nā ʻōwili i loko o kahi pūʻulu.E koho ka luna nana i na pepa e nana ia.

Ke koho ka luna nānā i nā ʻōwili e nānā ʻia, ʻaʻole hiki ke hoʻololi hou i ka helu o nā ʻōwili e nānā ʻia a i ʻole ka helu o nā ʻōwili i koho ʻia no ka nānā ʻana.I ka wā o ka nānā ʻana, ʻaʻole e lawe ʻia ka iwilei o ka lole mai kekahi ʻōwili koe wale nō ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana a nānā i ke kala.

Hoʻopili ʻia nā ʻōwili lole a pau i nānā ʻia a nānā ʻia ka helu kīnā.

2. Helu hoao

1) Ka helu ʻana o ka helu

Ma ke kumu, ma hope o ka nānā ʻia ʻana o kēlā me kēia ʻōwili lole, hiki ke hoʻohui ʻia nā helu.A laila, helu ʻia ka papa e like me ke kiʻekiʻe o ka ʻae ʻana, akā no ka mea he ʻokoʻa nā pae ʻae like ʻole o nā sila lole, inā e hoʻohana ʻia kēia ʻano hana e helu ai i ka helu o kēlā me kēia ʻōwili lole no 100 iwilei square, pono e helu ʻia ma ka 100 iwilei kuea E like me ka helu i kuhikuhi ʻia ma lalo nei, hiki iā ʻoe ke hana i ka loiloi papa no nā sila lole like ʻole.

A = (Nā helu nui x 3600) / (Nā ʻia nā iwilei x Ka laula lole hiki ke ʻoki ʻia) = nā kiko no 100 iwilei huinaha

2) Ka pae ʻae o nā ʻano lole like ʻole

Hoʻokaʻawale ʻia nā ʻano lole like ʻole i nā ʻano ʻehā

E helu ʻia kahi ʻōwili lole ma mua o ka helu i ʻōlelo ʻia ma ke ʻano he papa lua.

Inā ʻoi aku ka nui o ka helu awelika no ka hailona holoʻokoʻa i ka pae helu i ʻōlelo ʻia, e manaʻo ʻia ka hailona ʻaʻole i hāʻule i ka nānā ʻana.

3. Helu Nānā: Nā Manaʻo ʻē aʻe no ka loiloi ʻana i nā māka lole

Nā hemahema i hana hou ʻia:

1), ʻo nā hemahema i hoʻopaʻa hou ʻia a i ʻole e hoʻihoʻi hou ʻia e lilo i mau hemahema.Pono e hāʻawi ʻia nā helu ʻehā no kēlā me kēia iwilei lole no nā hemahema mau.

2) No ka nui o ka helu hemahema, ʻo kēlā me kēia ʻōwili me ka ʻoi aku ma mua o ʻumi iwilei o ka lole i loaʻa nā kīnā hou e manaʻo ʻia ʻaʻole kūpono.

Pehea e hoʻohana ai i ka ʻōnaehana helu ʻehā no ka nānā ʻana i nā ʻoihana lole lole
Nā hemahema laula piha:

3) ʻAʻole e helu ʻia nā ʻōwili i ʻoi aku ma mua o ʻehā mau hemahema ākea i kēlā me kēia 100y2 ma ke ʻano he huahana papa mua.

4) E manaʻo ʻia nā ʻōwili i ʻoi aku ma mua o hoʻokahi hapa nui i kēlā me kēia 10 iwilei linear ma ka awelika, ʻaʻole pili i ka nui o nā hemahema i loko o 100y.

5) ʻO nā ʻōwili i loaʻa kahi kīnā nui i loko o 3y o ke poʻo lole a i ʻole ka huelo lole e helu ʻia ʻaʻole kūpono.E noʻonoʻo ʻia nā hemahema nui ʻekolu a ʻehā paha.

6) Inā ʻike maopopo ʻia nā kaula ʻākea a paʻa paha ma ka ʻaoʻao hoʻokahi, a i ʻole aia nā nalu, nā wrinkles, nā ʻāpana a i ʻole nā ​​​​peʻe ma ke kino nui o ka lole, ʻo kēia mau ʻano ke kumu ʻole o ka lole i ka wā e wehe ʻia ai ka lole ma ke ʻano maʻamau. .ʻAʻole hiki ke helu ʻia ia mau puke ma ke ʻano he papa mua.

7) Ke nānā ʻana i kahi ʻōwili lole, e nānā i kona laulā ma ʻekolu manawa ma ka hoʻomaka, waena, a me ka hopena.Inā kokoke ka laulā o ka ʻōwili lole i ka laulā liʻiliʻi i ʻōlelo ʻia a ʻaʻole like ka laulā o ka lole, a laila pono e hoʻonui ʻia ka helu o ka nānā ʻana no ka laulā o ka ʻōwili.

8) Inā emi ka laulā o ka ʻōwili ma mua o ka laulā kūʻai liʻiliʻi i ʻōlelo ʻia, e manaʻo ʻia ka ʻōwili ʻaʻole kūpono.

9) No nā lole i ulana ʻia, inā he 1 ʻīniha ka laulā ma mua o ka laulā kūʻai i ʻōlelo ʻia, e manaʻo ʻia ka ʻōwili ʻaʻole kūpono.Eia nō naʻe, no ka lole ulana elastic, ʻoiai inā he 2 iniha ka laulā ma mua o ka laula i kuhikuhi ʻia, hiki ke kūpono.No nā lole i ulana ʻia, inā he 2 iniha ka laulā ma mua o ka laulā kūʻai i ʻōlelo ʻia, e hōʻole ʻia ka ʻōwili.Eia naʻe, no ka lole i ulana ʻia, ʻoiai inā he 3 iniha ka laulā ma mua o ka laula i ʻōlelo ʻia, hiki ke manaʻo ʻia he ʻae ʻia.

10) ʻO ka laula holoʻokoʻa o ka lole e pili ana i ka mamao mai ka selvage waho ma kekahi ʻaoʻao a i ka selvage waho ma kekahi ʻaoʻao.

ʻO ka laulā lole hiki ke ʻoki ʻia ʻo ia ka laula i ana ʻia me ka ʻole o nā pūnaʻi ponoʻī a/a i ʻole humuhumu, paʻi ʻole ʻia, ʻaʻole i uhi ʻia a i ʻole nā ​​ʻāpana ʻili i mālama ʻole ʻia o ke kino lole.

Loiloi ʻokoʻa kala:

11) ʻAʻole e emi ka ʻokoʻa kala ma waena o nā ʻōwili a me nā ʻōwili, nā pūʻulu a me nā puʻupuʻu ma mua o nā pae ʻehā i ka unahi hina AATCC.

12) I ka wā o ka nānā ʻana i ka lole, e lawe i 6 ~ 10 ʻīniha ākea nā papa lole ʻokoʻa mai kēlā me kēia ʻōwili, e hoʻohana ka mea nānā i kēia mau ʻili lole e hoʻohālikelike i ka ʻokoʻa kala i loko o ka ʻōwili like a i ʻole ka ʻokoʻa kala ma waena o nā ʻōwili like ʻole.

13) ʻAʻole e emi ka ʻokoʻa o ka waihoʻoluʻu ma waena o ka ʻaoʻao, ka ʻaoʻao-i-waena a i ʻole ka huelo poʻo a me ka lole lole i loko o ka ʻōwili like ma mua o ka pae ʻehā o ka unahi hina AATCC.No nā ʻōwili i nānā ʻia, e helu ʻia kēlā me kēia iwilei o ka lole me nā hemahema ʻokoʻa like ʻole i ʻehā helu no ka iwilei.

14) Inā ʻaʻole kūlike ka lole e nānā ʻia me nā laʻana i ʻāpono ʻia i hāʻawi ʻia ma mua, pono e emi kona ʻokoʻa kala ma mua o ka pae 4-5 i ka papaʻaina hina hina, inā ʻaʻole e manaʻo ʻia kēia pūʻulu o nā waiwai he kūpono ʻole.

Ka lōʻihi o ka ʻōwili:

15) Inā hoʻokaʻawale ka lōʻihi maoli o ka ʻōwili hoʻokahi ma mua o 2% mai ka lōʻihi i hōʻike ʻia ma ka lepili, e manaʻo ʻia ka ʻōwili ʻaʻole kūpono.No nā ʻōwili me ka loaʻa ʻana o ka lōʻihi o ka ʻōwili, ʻaʻole i loiloi hou ʻia ko lākou mau hemahema, akā pono e hōʻike ʻia ma ka hōʻike nānā.

16) Inā hoʻokaʻawale ka huina o nā lōʻihi o nā laʻana like ʻole ma ka 1% a ʻoi aʻe paha mai ka lōʻihi i hōʻike ʻia ma ka lepili, e manaʻo ʻia ka pūʻulu holoʻokoʻa ʻaʻole kūpono.

ʻāpana hui:

17) No nā lole i ulana ʻia, hiki ke hoʻopili ʻia ka ʻōwili holoʻokoʻa e nā ʻāpana he nui, ke ʻole i ʻōlelo ʻia ma ka ʻaelike kūʻai, inā loaʻa i kahi ʻōwili lole kahi ʻāpana hui me ka lōʻihi ma lalo o 40y, e hoʻoholo ʻia ka ʻōwili.ʻaʻole kūpono.

No nā lole i ulana ʻia, hiki ke hana ʻia ka ʻōwili holoʻokoʻa me nā ʻāpana he nui i hui ʻia, ke ʻole i kuhikuhi ʻia i loko o ka ʻaelike kūʻai, inā loaʻa i kahi ʻōwili kahi ʻāpana i hui ʻia ma lalo o 30 paona ke kaumaha, e helu ʻia ka ʻōwili ma ke ʻano kūpono ʻole.

Weft oblique and bow weft:

18) No nā lole i ulana ʻia a i ulana ʻia, nā lole i paʻi ʻia a i ʻole nā ​​lole ʻōniʻoniʻo me ka ʻoi aku o ka 2% o ka weft a me nā peʻa diagonal;a ʻaʻole hiki ke helu ʻia nā lole ʻino a pau me ka 3% skew ma ke ʻano he papa mua.

E ʻoki i ka lole ma ka ʻaoʻao o ka weft, a e hoʻāʻo e hoʻopili i ka ʻaoʻao o ka piko o ka weft e like me ka hiki;

Wehe pakahi i na wili weft;

A hiki i ka huki ʻana i ka weft piha;

Pehea e hoʻohana ai i ka ʻōnaehana helu ʻehā no ka nānā ʻana i nā ʻoihana lole lole

E pelu i ka hapalua ma ka lau, me ka pulupulu o na kihi, a ana i ka mamao ma waena o ka lae kiekie a me ka lae haahaa.

Pehea e hoʻohana ai i ka ʻōnaehana helu ʻehā no ka nānā ʻana i nā ʻoihana lole lole

19) No nā lole i ulana ʻia, ʻaʻole hiki ke helu ʻia nā lole wili a pau i paʻi ʻia ma mua o 3% i ka papa mua.

No nā lole i ulana ʻia, ʻaʻole hiki ke helu ʻia nā lole wick āpau a me nā lole i paʻi ʻia me ka skew i ʻoi aku ma mua o 5% i nā huahana papa mua.

Honi lole:

21) ʻO nā ʻōwili a pau e hāʻawi i ka ʻala ʻaʻole e hala i ka nānā ʻana.

Hole:

22), ma o nā hemahema e alakaʻi ai i ka pōʻino o ka lole, no ka nui o ka pōʻino, pono e helu ʻia he 4 mau helu.Pono e komo i loko o ka lua ʻelua a ʻoi aʻe nā wili naha.

Manaʻo:

23) E nānā i ka manaʻo o ka lole ma ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana me ka hāpana kuhikuhi.Inā loaʻa kahi ʻokoʻa nui, e helu ʻia ka ʻōwili ma ke ʻano he papa ʻelua, me ka helu o 4 no ka iwilei.Inā ʻaʻole hiki i ka manaʻo o nā ʻōwili āpau i ke kiʻekiʻe o ka laʻana kuhikuhi, e hoʻokuʻu ʻia ka nānā ʻana a ʻaʻole e loiloi ʻia ka helu no kekahi manawa.

ʻO ka mānoanoa:

24) Ma ka nānā piha ʻana, ʻae ʻia ʻelua mau nānā ʻana, a ʻae ʻia ʻo ± 5%, inā ʻaʻole e manaʻo ʻia ʻo ia he kūpono ʻole (ʻoiai ʻaʻole pili i ka ʻōnaehana 4-point, pono e hoʻopaʻa ʻia).

Kalima kaumaha:

25) I loko o ke kaʻina hana nānā piha, ua ʻae ʻia ma ka liʻiliʻi ʻelua mau nānā (me ka mahana a me ka haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa), a ʻae ʻia ʻo ± 5%, inā ʻaʻole e manaʻo ʻia ʻo ia he huahana substandard (ʻoiai ʻaʻole pili ia i ka ʻōnaehana ʻehā. , pono e hoʻopaʻa ʻia).

Reel, nā mea e pono ai ka paʻi:

1) ʻAʻohe koi kūikawā, ma kahi o 100 iwilei ka lōʻihi a ʻaʻole ʻoi aku ma mua o 150 paona ke kaumaha.

2) ʻAʻohe koi kūikawā, pono e hoʻokuʻu ʻia, a ʻaʻole pono e hōʻino ʻia ka pahu pepa i ka wā o ka lawe ʻana.

3) ʻO 1.5 ″-2.0 ″ ke anawaena o ka paipu pepa.

4) Ma nā ʻaoʻao ʻelua o ka lole ʻōwili, ʻaʻole pono ka ʻāpana i ʻike ʻia ma mua o 1".

5) Ma mua o ka ʻōwili ʻana i ka lole, e hoʻoponopono iā ia ma ka ʻaoʻao hema, waena a me nā wahi ʻākau me ka lipine paʻa ma lalo o 4″.

6) Ma hope o ka ʻōwili, i mea e pale ai i ka wehe ʻana o ka ʻōwili, e hoʻopili i ka lipine 12″ e hoʻoponopono i nā wahi 4.